One-of-a-Kind · Handcrafted · 2025

The Ember Thread Coat No.01 is constructed on a base of 100% boiled wool (lana cocida), selected for its warmth, density, and ability to hold structure while remaining fluid on the body. The silhouette is intentionally restrained and architectural, allowing the surface to carry the narrative.

Onto this cooked wool base, layers of hand embroidery, stocking stitch, and crocheted elements have been applied entirely by hand. Each stitch is sewn individually, without templates or repetition, creating a textured surface that records time, movement, and touch. Crocheted motifs, embroidered lines, and raw-edged finishes appear organically across the coat, revealing themselves gradually rather than all at once.

The contrast between the compact wool structure and the softness of yarn introduces a dialogue between strength and delicacy. Loose threads, visible joins, and intentionally unfinished moments are left exposed as a signature of the process—evidence of making, not imperfection.

This piece originates from an existing boiled-wool garment that has been fully reworked and transformed through more than sixty hours of handcraft. While a few final details may still be added, its structure, balance, and identity are complete.

Designed as a singular object rather than a reproducible garment, the Ember Thread Coat No.01 exists outside seasons, trends, and production cycles.

A wearable object.
A living piece.
Time, held in wool.

Designer’s Note

The vivid red of the wool was what struck me first. I responded by introducing contrast colours, not to soften it, but to allow the red to emerge even more clearly.

I did not use rulers to guide the stitching lines. Instead, I adjusted them as I worked, letting the stitches adapt to the natural movement of the coat. The form is not perfectly straight, and I wanted the embroidery to follow that truth rather than impose order.

The beginning and end of each thread are secured but left visible. I wanted these points to remain part of the design—marks of process and intentional irregularity. Threads are cut at different moments, and new starting points appear across the surface to emphasise variation and rhythm.

I chose to leave open space at both the top and the bottom of the coat. Along the hem, edged elements—squares and rectangular forms—anchor the piece to the ground. Around the shoulders, rounded shapes emerge, evoking sky and openness.

The cuffs are composed of two hand-sewn granny squares. While crocheting them, I focused on movement, introducing fringes that later expanded into continuous edges, allowing the coat to move and breathe with the body.

— Ebru Gurlek

*The pictures shows the process of making, and the final product includes the finished hem and attached crochet flowers on the back. 

• S size, only one available
• Base 100% wool, stitches merino & alpaca blend, granny squares 100% alpaca
• Edges sewn by transparent thread